The word ‘aggression’ has different meanings and is used in many different ways. But in the dog world we use it when a dog is in a bad state of mind, example; a dog that is aggressive to everyone.
Aggression in the dog world is considered “an intent to harm” human or animal. It is shown by body language, bark, growl or flight (lunging towards object). There are many theories to how aggression is started, but one that we can all agree on is that it is not a genetic form in a dog. Aggression is a man-made behavior and is something we in the animal community should take very seriously.
When a dog is aggressive you want to pinpoint the reasons. A dog can come from an abusive household, or there is not sufficient exercise - therefore there is no release of energy. It can also come from a trauma from another dog, or from a person who trains the dog to be aggressive. Just like fear, aggression is another issue that is difficult to train out of a dog. It is important to deal with it promptly before it becomes is uncontrollable. A professional should be consulted before you or others may be hurt.
Dog trainers and animal behaviorists have something called the “breed standard”, meaning certain breeds such as bully breeds or terriers already have a “predisposition.” This hurts many popular breeds like the Pit bull Terrier, or Bull Terrier, because these two breeds are very high energy and can be prone to bad behavior. Bad behavior can be prevented by working your dog mentally and physically.
In the animal world there is no such thing as a breed standard. Every dog has a different personality and any dog can be aggressive if there is no structure, rules or boundaries. By creating structure, rules and boundaries to every dog, you will have an overall good dog and also one who listens and is trustworthy around other dogs and humans. By not creating structure, rules and boundaries you will have a frustrated dog because there is no release for their energy, therefore the dog will misbehave both on or off-leash.
If you have more than one dog in your house, you have a pack. Therefore you must follow pack rules. Some trainers and behaviorists don't follow these rules because they believe in what is called ‘Alpha Dog Behavior’.
The meaning of alpha dog does not mean a pack leader. An alpha dog is a dominant dog; whether it is male or female. This term is often used figuratively. If you have an alpha dog, you have a dog that will show dominant behavior. There are many professionals who think this is ok; in actuality, it is not because it is only showing how to be dominant and aggressive. Pack leaders are those who guide others to safety or proper behavior. Pack rules are simple-don't dominate your pack by putting yourself in an alpha position as this will only cause aggressive behavior among the pack. There needs to be calm leadership, which will, in turn guide them to behave.
Ultimately, being a pack leader means to guide your pack, not dominate them. Any form of aggression can escalate, so it is important to consult a professional when you are beyond your level of comfort.
Rayner Pacheco Canine behaviorist T-trainers
Thursday, February 23, 2012
Wednesday, February 15, 2012
Shelter Dogs;
Each year more than 10,000 pets are left in city shelters and more than 50,000 are abandoned. City shelters like Animal Care and Control are places where most pets don't make it out.
There many reasons why dogs don’t get out; because they aren’t well enough or because they don’t pass something called a “SAFER” test. A SAFER test is done to rate the temperament of the dog so it can be determined whether or not they can go into an adopted home, or to a rescue group. Shelter volunteers put down notes for each dog to know how they were with them and this increases the hope for a dog to get rescued.
The SAFER test is not always accurate, of the large amount of dogs being brought to the shelter, they can only do a test one time, and one time only (unless it is requested by a rescue to reevaluate the dog again). The purpose of this article is not to criticize the city shelters, but to bring awareness of how to properly evaluate a dog, and to know the right words to use and how to use them when evaluating a dog. Every day I get asked by rescue groups to evaluate dogs for them. When I arrive I look at the SAFER test to see why they have the behavior notes.
First impressions are important, if they are lunging or barking at the cage. Remember, oftentimes they are just scared. Shelters are loud and extremely stressful - just imagine yourself going into a place you are not sure of, you will also act very insecure.
Dogs are taken out of the cage and walked to a room where they are evaluated. There, a handler can determine the dog's behavior. Many times, a dog will not show any type of bad behavior, or will show bad behavior because of the level of frustration or insecurity. Many dogs fail tests and therefore get put to sleep, maybe unnecessarily.
I have developed a system that can help rescue groups, or handlers/volunteers to help the dog be better evaluated, it will show the real temperament of the dog. I have used this system many times and have helped place many dogs into great homes. But it must be done with a professional dog trainer or behaviorist.
• When seeing a dog, remember to ask for the Evaluation card. There are different tests done, so please ask to see the person who evaluated the dog and so you can ask them questions: how was the dog when leaving the cage, what state was the dog in when getting into the room? Remember when a person is handling the leash they are holding it very tight, so a dog can pick up on everything.
• Make sure that the evaluation room has a hook, this way you can place the leash there, the less you're holding on to the leash the better, the evaluation will run smoother.
You always want to be calm when you’re entering the room where the dogs are, you don’t want to enter with any kind of emotion the dog will read it and play on that. When approaching the cage, remember to not go in a challenging way. Face sideways and show that you’re not confrontational - stay relaxed and let the dog come to you. If the dog is barking right off the bat, do not take the dog out of the cage, this will be the wrong moment for you to anything. Remember, dogs in the shelter do not get daily activities. They have alot of pent up energy. It will take time for the dog to calm down. Once the dog is calm, you put on the leash. Remember to have the leash up high close to the ears not down on the neck. You will lose control if the collar is not placed properly. Always remember that how you are in the beginning of the walk is will pave the way for the rest of the evaluation, so if you don’t show that you’re in control of the situation then you will have a problem.
Once the dog is out, start with a walk, again remember that you have to show control but also understand that the dog is very energetic, so make sure you’re strong and ready for it. Once out the door, use the rule the first 2-4 minutes the dog must use the bathroom before using any commands. This way you will have the dog's attention. Once the walk is done and you're inside, take the dog right to the evaluation room. This is where a trainer or behaviorist will take over, but that doesn’t mean you cannot watch or assist. It is my belief that you would rather see it with your own eyes rather than hear it second hand. If you’re doing the test yourself then here are a few steps to take.
• Bring the dog into the evaluation room, and clip the leash on the hook.
• Do the regular pinches you would normally do, but make sure they aren’t for too long or the dog can feel insecure and react. We don’t want a bite to happen.
• Make sure you have a fake baby toy with you, one that cries is perfect. Bring is close to the dog and make the toy touch the dog just like a child would normally touch a dog. If the dog licks too much, or wants to play with it or other then you know your answer as far as if the dog can be with a child. I have done the child test this way and it has worked many times. Many dogs have been placed at homes where they have children.
• When performing evaluations, you must make sure you have a handler that works for the shelter there. This way if you need help you have it.
A “SAFER” test must be done three times in order for you to know if a dog is adoptable and where can the dog be placed. This rule is ignored because of lack of time, which is why I ask you bring a professional with you to conduct a test with you.
The best way to know if a dog is aggressive or has other behavior issues is by doing it right. We as animal activists must always do things in threes when it comes to evaluations and they must be done right. 99% of the dogs in the shelter are written off as aggressive or fearful but yet they are not evaluated properly. Many people in the shelter system are doing the best they can, but it is also up to us to make sure we can help them. We complain that the shelter system is flawed, but yet not many people help the shelter system. My best advice is if you want to help, make sure you do it properly. In the end we are the voice of the animals and they need us to help them.
Rayner Pacheco Canine behaviorist
T-Trainers
There many reasons why dogs don’t get out; because they aren’t well enough or because they don’t pass something called a “SAFER” test. A SAFER test is done to rate the temperament of the dog so it can be determined whether or not they can go into an adopted home, or to a rescue group. Shelter volunteers put down notes for each dog to know how they were with them and this increases the hope for a dog to get rescued.
The SAFER test is not always accurate, of the large amount of dogs being brought to the shelter, they can only do a test one time, and one time only (unless it is requested by a rescue to reevaluate the dog again). The purpose of this article is not to criticize the city shelters, but to bring awareness of how to properly evaluate a dog, and to know the right words to use and how to use them when evaluating a dog. Every day I get asked by rescue groups to evaluate dogs for them. When I arrive I look at the SAFER test to see why they have the behavior notes.
First impressions are important, if they are lunging or barking at the cage. Remember, oftentimes they are just scared. Shelters are loud and extremely stressful - just imagine yourself going into a place you are not sure of, you will also act very insecure.
Dogs are taken out of the cage and walked to a room where they are evaluated. There, a handler can determine the dog's behavior. Many times, a dog will not show any type of bad behavior, or will show bad behavior because of the level of frustration or insecurity. Many dogs fail tests and therefore get put to sleep, maybe unnecessarily.
I have developed a system that can help rescue groups, or handlers/volunteers to help the dog be better evaluated, it will show the real temperament of the dog. I have used this system many times and have helped place many dogs into great homes. But it must be done with a professional dog trainer or behaviorist.
• When seeing a dog, remember to ask for the Evaluation card. There are different tests done, so please ask to see the person who evaluated the dog and so you can ask them questions: how was the dog when leaving the cage, what state was the dog in when getting into the room? Remember when a person is handling the leash they are holding it very tight, so a dog can pick up on everything.
• Make sure that the evaluation room has a hook, this way you can place the leash there, the less you're holding on to the leash the better, the evaluation will run smoother.
You always want to be calm when you’re entering the room where the dogs are, you don’t want to enter with any kind of emotion the dog will read it and play on that. When approaching the cage, remember to not go in a challenging way. Face sideways and show that you’re not confrontational - stay relaxed and let the dog come to you. If the dog is barking right off the bat, do not take the dog out of the cage, this will be the wrong moment for you to anything. Remember, dogs in the shelter do not get daily activities. They have alot of pent up energy. It will take time for the dog to calm down. Once the dog is calm, you put on the leash. Remember to have the leash up high close to the ears not down on the neck. You will lose control if the collar is not placed properly. Always remember that how you are in the beginning of the walk is will pave the way for the rest of the evaluation, so if you don’t show that you’re in control of the situation then you will have a problem.
Once the dog is out, start with a walk, again remember that you have to show control but also understand that the dog is very energetic, so make sure you’re strong and ready for it. Once out the door, use the rule the first 2-4 minutes the dog must use the bathroom before using any commands. This way you will have the dog's attention. Once the walk is done and you're inside, take the dog right to the evaluation room. This is where a trainer or behaviorist will take over, but that doesn’t mean you cannot watch or assist. It is my belief that you would rather see it with your own eyes rather than hear it second hand. If you’re doing the test yourself then here are a few steps to take.
• Bring the dog into the evaluation room, and clip the leash on the hook.
• Do the regular pinches you would normally do, but make sure they aren’t for too long or the dog can feel insecure and react. We don’t want a bite to happen.
• Make sure you have a fake baby toy with you, one that cries is perfect. Bring is close to the dog and make the toy touch the dog just like a child would normally touch a dog. If the dog licks too much, or wants to play with it or other then you know your answer as far as if the dog can be with a child. I have done the child test this way and it has worked many times. Many dogs have been placed at homes where they have children.
• When performing evaluations, you must make sure you have a handler that works for the shelter there. This way if you need help you have it.
A “SAFER” test must be done three times in order for you to know if a dog is adoptable and where can the dog be placed. This rule is ignored because of lack of time, which is why I ask you bring a professional with you to conduct a test with you.
The best way to know if a dog is aggressive or has other behavior issues is by doing it right. We as animal activists must always do things in threes when it comes to evaluations and they must be done right. 99% of the dogs in the shelter are written off as aggressive or fearful but yet they are not evaluated properly. Many people in the shelter system are doing the best they can, but it is also up to us to make sure we can help them. We complain that the shelter system is flawed, but yet not many people help the shelter system. My best advice is if you want to help, make sure you do it properly. In the end we are the voice of the animals and they need us to help them.
Rayner Pacheco Canine behaviorist
T-Trainers
Saturday, February 4, 2012
The Truth about Fear Aggression;
There many dog trainers or veterinarians who use the word 'fear aggression' for dogs who bite out of fear. In reality there is no such word for this behavior.
Here is the meaning of Fear; a distressing emotion aroused by impending danger, evil, pain, etc., whether the threat is real or imagined; the feeling or condition of being afraid. So with aggression, the meaning is completely different, putting the two words together will only make a diagnosis that will turn a fearful dog into an aggressive dog.
Dogs that are afraid of anything tend to give reactions; body language is a good sign of knowing when a dog can bite. When having a dog with fear issues, you must know why the dog has it. Many shelter or rescue dogs come with 'baggage'. If the issue is greater than can be managed comfortably, it is best to reach out to a behaviorist.
Fear issues can easily become red zone cases. For instance, a fearful dog can bite someone not because it is aggressive, but because it is unsure of a situation. A fearful dog might urinate; we call that submissive peeing.
Fear issue cases can lead to an aggressive moment by going through several stages. The first stage is insecurity, then the dog can become stressed because of the level of insecurity, from that stress it can become frustration, then that frustration can lead to AGGRESSION. This is why most people use the term fear aggression because they don’t know the stage breakdown. So, how do you stop this insecure behavior from becoming aggression - well here is how!
• You need to learn to gain the trust of your dog by approaching calmly, never approaching the dog front first. Slowly go to your dog and kneel down to his/her side and this will show the dog you’re non-confrontational.
• Remember, everything is convocation to a dog from how you approach, to how you hold the leash. Once you’re down to a neutral level just be patient. Let the dog go in a down or in sitting position, from there you extend your hand or use treats to show that you’re not going to hurt him/her.
• Once the dog is in a calmer state, show the leash. It is important to remain calm because you don't want the dog to run from you, then necessitating repeating the stages. Remember to be consistent.
• If your dog is accepting the leash and is walking well, you then present a treat, this time use a different treat than when leashing up. Begin to walk and remember to relax the leash. If the dog seems agitated when you put on the leash, just relax, remember if you start to act negatively it will lead it to the leash becoming a negative association to the dog. Just relax and let the dog go through what I call motions.. once that happens then you will be fine, the dog will calm down and then you start with the walk…
Now I’m sure many of you will ask, “well my dog will snap at me or is starting to growl when I approach with the leash or if I even just approach the dog”. That’s a sign of a frustrated dog, very insecure and nervous. At this point give the dog space and let the dog come to you…
Dogs that have fear issues don’t need to be on medications, they can overcome these issues with just you being patient and showing trust…
If you need additional help, please contact a professional. Remember every dog is different, not all dogs require the same training. Once you know the root of the problem you will better be able to solve it.
Rayner Pacheco Canine behaviorist
T-Trainers
Here is the meaning of Fear; a distressing emotion aroused by impending danger, evil, pain, etc., whether the threat is real or imagined; the feeling or condition of being afraid. So with aggression, the meaning is completely different, putting the two words together will only make a diagnosis that will turn a fearful dog into an aggressive dog.
Dogs that are afraid of anything tend to give reactions; body language is a good sign of knowing when a dog can bite. When having a dog with fear issues, you must know why the dog has it. Many shelter or rescue dogs come with 'baggage'. If the issue is greater than can be managed comfortably, it is best to reach out to a behaviorist.
Fear issues can easily become red zone cases. For instance, a fearful dog can bite someone not because it is aggressive, but because it is unsure of a situation. A fearful dog might urinate; we call that submissive peeing.
Fear issue cases can lead to an aggressive moment by going through several stages. The first stage is insecurity, then the dog can become stressed because of the level of insecurity, from that stress it can become frustration, then that frustration can lead to AGGRESSION. This is why most people use the term fear aggression because they don’t know the stage breakdown. So, how do you stop this insecure behavior from becoming aggression - well here is how!
• You need to learn to gain the trust of your dog by approaching calmly, never approaching the dog front first. Slowly go to your dog and kneel down to his/her side and this will show the dog you’re non-confrontational.
• Remember, everything is convocation to a dog from how you approach, to how you hold the leash. Once you’re down to a neutral level just be patient. Let the dog go in a down or in sitting position, from there you extend your hand or use treats to show that you’re not going to hurt him/her.
• Once the dog is in a calmer state, show the leash. It is important to remain calm because you don't want the dog to run from you, then necessitating repeating the stages. Remember to be consistent.
• If your dog is accepting the leash and is walking well, you then present a treat, this time use a different treat than when leashing up. Begin to walk and remember to relax the leash. If the dog seems agitated when you put on the leash, just relax, remember if you start to act negatively it will lead it to the leash becoming a negative association to the dog. Just relax and let the dog go through what I call motions.. once that happens then you will be fine, the dog will calm down and then you start with the walk…
Now I’m sure many of you will ask, “well my dog will snap at me or is starting to growl when I approach with the leash or if I even just approach the dog”. That’s a sign of a frustrated dog, very insecure and nervous. At this point give the dog space and let the dog come to you…
Dogs that have fear issues don’t need to be on medications, they can overcome these issues with just you being patient and showing trust…
If you need additional help, please contact a professional. Remember every dog is different, not all dogs require the same training. Once you know the root of the problem you will better be able to solve it.
Rayner Pacheco Canine behaviorist
T-Trainers
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
